Celebrating 200 Years

Takeaways from all the fashion weeks

Kiser and friends celebrate the most recent edition of UP Magazine’s last printed issue on fashion and lifestyle.
Kiser and friends celebrate the most recent edition of UP Magazine’s last printed issue on fashion and lifestyle.

You should be wearing more clothes, but we should just see less of them…

If you’ve been following the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) calendar, then you’ve likely noticed the busy past couple of weeks. From September through October, there are hundreds of designers debuting presentations and runway shows across the globe, or, more honestly, the traditional fashion capitals of the Western world.

In New York, London, Milan and Paris, models gallivant across elaborate sets and streetways, for both upcoming and legacy fashion houses alike. But with so many seasonal collections, it gets hard to sort through all the noise.

Fashion does have a history of being inaccessible due to the often exorbitant price of garments, but trends and creative ideas for how to play with clothes emerge and can find their way into your own personal wardrobe.   

So far, the most eye-catching and coveted spring 2027 ready-to-wear looks have all circled a few recurring vibes and elements.

Lightweight and layered sheer

Eckhaus Latta was a shining example of this trend, with several of their looks layering featherweight tanks over solid colored tees to create a tangible color mixing that feels simply clever. At Loewe, the beauty of sheer became captivating as models walked down in see-through dresses and skirts made out of candy-striped knitted glass beads.

For Dior, Jonathan Anderson reinterpreted structured archival designs into lightweight designs that danced in the breeze. Fringed bags bounced off shoulders, and long earrings of fabric drifted behind models in their see-through tops and button-ups.

Designers pursuing this airy fantasy have inspired me to look for lightweight garments made out of mesh or, during a lucky thrift trip, silk or chiffon.

The biggest takeaway from this runway trend, however, comes from the layering of these sheer clothes to create colors with more dimension, and silhouettes that highlight the body and not just the outfit.

Melted/weighed down silhouettes 

Instead of fixating on what materials made clothes lighter, some designers made collections focused on creating garments that slipped off the body or looked heavy.

Enjoy what you're reading?
Signup for our newsletter

The most interesting show with their spin on this trend was by far Diesel, and the silhouettes that melted down the bodies of models. Shredded blouses and dresses were barely held together, creating the iconic, cheeky appeal associated with the brand.

While not necessarily heavy, garments barely clung to hips and shoulders, revealing sweat-kissed skin and floral cutouts that couldn’t be interpreted as anything less than chic and sexy.

For Margiela, the second, older house creatively directed by Glenn Martens, the same director for Diesel. Showcased slouchy collars and other designs with draped necklines. The clothes of the older house were literally heavier. Martens' attempt at reinvigorating this idea fell flat and became muddled in the codes of the more iconic house.

Looks in this collection highlighted draping that exposed chests and slipped off shoulders into classic Margiela silhouettes. While not revolutionary, these designs played with the idea of hard and soft, and emphasized how the gathering of fabric can highlight certain areas of the body.

At Courrèges, models pranced down the runway in vibrant colors and undone belts that almost looked as if models weren’t ready yet. But I think it would be an overgeneralization to say that the show focused on the “heavy” trend. Several looks featured thick buttoned jackets and gumdrop-shaped hats that looked as if they sat in the sun for a little while too long.

This runway trend has inspired me to question the value of the things in my wardrobe, and put on the pieces hidden in the corners of my closet with stretched collars and ripped hems. After all, there is something captivating about the worn-in look.

Embellishments and pins

Some of the most visually stimulating designs this season have been from brands showcasing clothes saturated in embellishments and pendants.

It is customary to see jewels and other motifs symbolic of the show house pinned and sewed into looks. Designers such as Julian Klaunser ran with this idea and stole the spot as my favorite show of the season.

Klausner elevated the growing trend of sheer layered skirts by sending looks down the runway dripping with charms, pins and ribbons, creating a mosaic of movement. The star of the Dries Van Noten show came in silhouettes cinched at the waist by thick colorful brooches, literally pulling everything together.

Prada, a house legendary for their minimalist designs and often dull palettes, hosted a ready-to-wear show that was anything but that. Tiny tops and bras clung to chests in bright patterns. Leather jackets were either spray-painted or hydro-dipped in loud shades of tacky yellows and pinks. Finally, skirts, the prized garment of Miuccia Prada, were seen sheer and layered over one another as well as beautifully constructed out of crystal flowers.

There was no fabric, no base layer, nothing to cling on to. Just entire skirts structured out of these clusters of flowers that reflected light and ended around the knee.

Finally, to conclude my favorite trend of the season, Jean Paul Gaultier adorned light silver bells on many of the looks in its collection. Before they were seen, they were heard. A playful sound chimed down the runway as Duran Lantink’s designs rang and sparkled from the stylish little noise makers.

The biggest takeaway from this trend and fashion in general is that the most stylish and eye-catching clothes are the ones that showcase individual flair and uniqueness. Fashion is an art form, and what better way to be an artist than to play with your clothes.

youngk20@miamioh.edu 

Kiser Young is senior strategic communication and journalism student from Dayton, Ohio. He serves as the social media editor for TMS and one of the fashion directors for UP Magazine. In his free time he enjoys watching music and fashion videos and shows, and hopes to creatively direct in the future.